WEDNESDAY, MAY 23, 2012
Morning– leaving O’ Cereibro; birdsong, and sun light on the stone buildings, and puddles of fog in the valleys of hills beyond hills at the horizon. Sunrise was magical. Yesterday we left Villafranca early, and walked a pleasant day’s worth—then at Herrerias we took the smooth road instead of the bumpy path. It was a bad mistake– we walked for 3 hours next to the freeway, in hot sun. We finally got to a crossroad with buildings, and I refused to walk any further. We needed about 8 k to get up and back to Cebreiro, and it was 6 pm. Then a miracle happened— a young lady offered us a ride. It turns out that she is working in Paraguay, for a Spanish firm. She is going back on Monday! Her name is Vanessa Garrido. I told her to look up Sonia Fanego of Ybycui, and Marcos Tatewski— what a small world!!! So she got us to Cereibro at 6:45, just in time for 7 pm mass. The Albergue was full since 1 pm, but a sweet Norwegian lady named Reidder had felt sick, so she was moving to the last room in the hotel, and gave me her bed in the Albergue! We went to mass, which was lovely, and they gave a special blessing to pilgrims—we found John McLean in the pew in front of us, and he and Reidder joined us for a great dinner at the Venta Celta, with Matilda, a great hostess. We had met John in Astorga, and it was fun to get another wonderful meal with him. Dinner was Galician soup, stewed ribs, with great flavor, and local fresh goat cheese with honey for dessert. I fell into the sleeping bag & didn’t move til morning. I think we walked 40 k yesterday, uphill.
Today we are trying to go to Samos. I walked about 6 k, and then felt so done-in I called for a taxi. Andy is a little tired too– and willing. We are on a lovely hilltop waiting for our ride. The birds are singing. I listened to Palestrina for this morning’s hike. Yesterday Palestrina got me through hours of trudging in hot sun. I cannot say anything especially meaningful, but we are in Samos: will try to get to mass tonight, and pray for enlightenment, and sore feet!